Although we have been neglectful in updating the blog, these past few weeks, every week we continued to reflect on the lessons we’ve picked up along our Fuji to Fiji adventure. Week 9 (mid March) feels like a long time ago but during this week, South Korea had us utterly captivated, so much so that narrowing down just five things was a struggle. From steamy bathhouses to history, honeymoons and hard truths, here’s what we learned in the Land of the Morning Calm. (Yes, this the origin of this nickname could have been another thing we have learned but we’ll save that for our blog post about what we got up to in South Korea!)

1. Jjimjilbangs vs Onsens: The Great Bathhouse Showdown

We thought we had mastered public bathing in Japan. We had conquered our initial awkwardness, fully embraced onsen culture, and started to love every single second of it. But then South Korea threw us a curveball: the jjimjilbang. (Pronounced: ‘Jim-jil-bang’)

Imagine an onsen but supersized, an entire building dedicated to sweating, scrubbing, and snacking. You start with the gender-segregated baths, which, in a shocking twist, are even hotter than Japanese onsens. We found ourselves hopping between pools like indecisive frogs: hot, hotter, cold, and what we can only describe as “soul-freezing.” The bath temperatures fluctuate wildly, and so did our body temperatures.

And then there’s the scrub. This is what truly separates jjimjilbangs from onsen. In Japan, onsen etiquette is all about a quiet soak. In Korea, however, you pay to be scrubbed within an inch of your life by a no-nonsense ‘ajumma’ who will exfoliate everywhere. Yes, we mean everywhere. Nothing is off limits. We emerged slightly dazed, significantly smoother, and wondering how much of us had been scrubbed away. Worth it. Would do it again.

2. Busan Has Layers

While Seoul is the modern metropolis grabbing headlines, Busan was the city that quietly stole our hearts. It’s a place with beaches, bustling markets, colourful villages, and a fascinating past. Busan was the temporary capital of South Korea during the Korean War and became a refuge for thousands of displaced families. The legacy of that time is still visible today in places like Gamcheon Culture Village which was once a shantytown, now an artsy hillside maze of colour and creativity.

We learned that Busan isn’t just about good food and sea views (though it excels at both); it’s about resilience. Its history is woven into every street and alley, giving the city a soul that surprised us in the best way.

3. It’s Starting to Feel Like Our Honeymoon

Somewhere between our whirlwind travel schedule through Japan, bouncing around from place to place, we kind of forgot that this year is our honeymoon and we hadn’t really truly settled into that phase of our trip. The constant budgeting to keep costs under control isn’t exactly what we had in mind for our honeymoon but South Korea changed that.

Seoul was our first proper splash-out hotel of the trip, we’re talking plush bedding, city views, rainfall showers, cocktails, coffee machines and even a bathtub we didn’t have to share with strangers. It was luxurious, the kind of things that is quite typical for a honeymoon, and staying here encouraged us to really think about what actually makes a honeymoon. Of course, everyone’s definition of a honeymoon is unique but for us the realisation that it isn’t the fancy hotels, the expensive cocktails or the indulgent food, it’s each other. It’s the experiences we share, the laughs we have, the memories we are creating and it’s the moments where you catch one another’s eye, smile and realise it’s that feeling that makes a honeymoon.

Something clicked in Seoul, and for the first time, Fuji to Fiji felt like more than just an adventure or a honeymoon - it felt like us.

4. Over-Tourism is Real, and We Are Part of It

We’ve seen crowds before. London sometimes felt like just one big crowd, a weekend where us and every other young couple had the same idea. And so far, on this journey, we braved Kyoto’s shrines and squeezed through Tokyo’s Shibuya Crossing. But nothing prepared us for the tourist crush at Bukchon Hanok Village.

First things first, the village is beautiful - a preserved slice of traditional architecture nestled in the heart of Seoul. But it was also swarming with selfie sticks, costume rentals, and food carts. Signs politely asked tourists to respect the peace and quiet of residents. We later learned that the village has had to introduce curfews to limit visiting hours due to the sheer volume of foot traffic. It’s insane, and easy to forget that these are people’s homes. We couldn’t imagine stepping out of your house every day to swarms of people, pushing past tourists as you just try to get to work or grab your morning coffee.

We love seeing places thrive, but this was a stark reminder that we’re part of the tourism machine, too. We try to be mindful, visiting popular spots early, exploring lesser-known areas, and supporting small businesses. It’s a tricky balance, but one we’re constantly thinking about.

5. North Korea: More Than a Tourist Attraction

The DMZ is one of the most visited sites in South Korea, but we made the choice not to go. We didn’t need to. We know about the regime, its realities, and the painful history that continues to shape the Korean peninsula.

Yes, one day, I hope we have the opportunity to visit North Korea and really learn more about this part of this world but for now, we feel North Korea is often reduced to a tourist spectacle, especially the DMZ. It’s not a tourist attraction, it was a compromise to end years of fighting and seeing people visit just doesn’t feel right for us. No disrespect to people that do visit and learn more about the conflict but there are probably other ways to learn. I don’t know, what do you think? Let us know in the comments.

North Korea is a country where millions live under extreme repression. We’ve listened to firsthand accounts, watched interviews with defectors, and followed stories long before we arrived. Walking through Seoul, the proximity of that closed-off world hit hard. The border isn’t a novelty; it’s a reminder of families separated, of unification struggles, and of a people still living in very different worlds.

It was a sobering reminder that travel isn’t just about seeing, it’s about understanding, too.

Final Thoughts

South Korea was everything we hoped for and more equal parts exciting, fascinating, and a little overwhelming in the best way. We could have written a list of 50 things we learned, but for now, these five will have to do.

Next stop? China. Let’s see what lessons await us there.

Until next time, 안녕 (annyeong)!

5 Things We Have Learned This Week… #9