There are some countries you visit knowing you’ll barely scratch the surface, and South Korea was one of those places for us. Planning our trip to China, meant that we had to sacrifice some time in either Japan or South Korea and we choose South Korea for that sacrifice. Writing this, in hindsight of our time in China, we should have spent a little more time in South Korea but you don’t get do-overs in life.

We landed in Busan, zipped up to Seoul, and in between, we tried to cram in as much as we could. But the truth is, we left wanting more. More of the food, the culture, the history, and definitely more jjimjilbangs.

Busan: Beaches, Villages, and a Healthy Dose of Unexpected Kindness

Busan welcomed us with ocean breezes, colourful hillside villages, and some of the friendliest encounters we’ve had on our journey so far. One such moment came in the most unassuming of places: Busan Station. We were standing around, looking mildly confused (our usual travel stance), when a kind stranger struck up a conversation. He was an English teacher, eager to practice and help us navigate the station. It was a small moment, but one that left an impression and sometimes, travel is made in these fleeting connections.

Another encounter came as we climbed the steep paths towards Gamcheon Culture Village. A Korean lady, seeing us panting our way up the hill, gave us an encouraging smile and a few words in Korean that we didn’t understand but appreciated nonetheless. This was before we even saw the pastel-coloured houses stacked along the hillside, a village as beautiful as it is touristy. It’s often called the ‘Santorini of Korea,’ but it had its own unique charm, with hidden alleyways and art murals waiting to be discovered.

From there, we balanced sightseeing with some of Busan’s best coastal spots: Haeundae Beach, where the golden sand stretched endlessly, and the scenic Blue Line train, which gave us a front-row seat to the coastline’s beauty. It turned into a perfect sunset date night, watching the light melt over the water was pure magic. That is, until we realised we’d been deposited in the middle of nowhere and had a two-mile uphill walk just to get to the nearest metro station. Still, we laughed (eventually), and it’s one of those classic travel moments we’ll never forget.

Oh, and we took the cable car at Songdo Beach, dangling above the water in a glass-bottomed cabin is always a solid way to test your nerves. Especially if you’re Ash.

You see, Ash has a well-documented fear of heights. So when we found ourselves suspended mid-air, with only a pane of glass between us and the ocean below, he was… less than thrilled. White-knuckled grip, intense concentration, and a whole lot of deep breathing got him through it. I thought it was hilarious (he did not). But to his credit, he pushed through and made it across, proud, if a little shaky. I’ve now got the rest of the year to convince him that this was just the warm-up act for cliff diving, skydiving, and maybe even a hot air balloon ride. One step at a time.

Jjimjilbangs: Our Scrub-Down Awakening

One of the biggest cultural experiences in Korea? The jjimjilbang. These Korean bathhouses are more than just a place to get clean, they’re an entire world of relaxation, socialising, and in our case, intense exfoliation.

In Busan, we visited Spa Land, a jjimjilbang that felt like a five-star wellness retreat. With multiple themed saunas and pools of varying temperatures, we could have spent the whole day lounging like blissed-out sea otters. But we had one mission: the infamous Korean body scrub, or seshin.

If you’ve never had one, let us paint a picture. You strip completely naked (yes, completely), enter the gender-segregated bathhouse, soak in hot pools until your skin is soft, and then lie down on a slippery plastic table. That’s when the seshin ajusshi, a no-nonsense older Korean man, comes in, armed with what can only be described as sandpaper mitts. He then proceeds to scrub everywhere. And we mean everywhere. You’re lying there, vulnerable, slightly confused, and deeply exfoliated. It’s awkward, intimate, but oddly empowering. By the end, we were shiny, pink, and reborn. Of course, there is no photography inside but here’s one of us looking fresh afterwards!

We had considered visiting Aquafield in Seoul too, but our experience in Busan was so good, we decided not to overdo it. Better to end on a high note (and a smooth one).

A Train Ride Without Zombies (Thankfully)

Having watched Train to Busan, we couldn’t help but board the KTX with a mix of excitement and wariness (no zombies, phew). The high-speed train whisked us from Busan to Seoul in just over two hours, a smooth and comfortable ride that had us comparing it to Japan’s Shinkansen. While the Shinkansen wins in terms of speed, efficiency, and that whisper-quiet glide, the KTX held its own and gave us a glimpse of the Korean countryside along the way.

Watching the countryside zip past us would be an apt point to talk about why South Korea is sometimes referred to as The Land of the Morning Calm. It was first coined in the late 1800s by the American author Percival Lowell in his 1885 book "Chosön, the Land of the Morning Calm," which discussed the Korean kingdom of Joseon (조선). The Korean term "Joseon" (조선) can be translated as "morning freshness" or "morning radiance," which contributes to the meaning of the nickname but it’s really used to describe Korea’s incredible natural beauty, particularly its mountains. Whilst there was no zombies in sight, the stunning scenery saw on the way made for a peaceful train ride.

Seoul: Our Honeymoon Kick-Off and a City of Contrasts

Seoul felt like the real start of our honeymoon, as we mentioned in our 5 Things series. We splashed out on a fancy hotel and even treated ourselves to a few rooftop cocktails. But if there’s one thing we realised, it’s that we don’t need luxury to make it feel like a honeymoon. Good food, great conversation, and a shared adventure do the trick.

We started with Gyeongbokgung Palace, even if we did miss the changing of the guard, we wandered through vast courtyards and ancient halls and learnt about the history of Korea whilst making a fun Instagram story. There was something about being surrounded by centuries-old architecture with city skyscrapers looming in the background whilst making a video that makes you feel like you’re walking through two timelines at once.

In Bukchon Hanok Village, we wandered narrow lanes lined with traditional houses, dodging influencers in hanbok and soaking in the old-world charm. We talked about the effects of over tourism in our 5 Things series and Buckhon wasn’t our favourite.

Sadly, we also missed a chance to meet up with some friends who were supposed to be in town at the same time as us, but, thanks to a Heathrow power outage it derailed their plans. It’s sweet to think of all the chance encounters we may have this year as our paths cross with old friends and perhaps some new ones along the way.

We explored Starfield Library, a jaw-dropping cathedral of books inside a mall. We strolled through Gangnam (cue the mental soundtrack), not doing the dance but admiring the polished streets and fashionable locals. But one of our favourite moments was walking through Yeouido Hangang Park where, we swear, every single person was on a date. Couples everywhere, strolling hand in hand, picnicking, or just enjoying each other’s company. It was romantic, slightly surreal, and made us feel like we’d wandered into a K-drama.

The food, though, was the true standout. Korean BBQ is not just a meal, it’s an experience. Grilling marinated meats over hot coals, wrapping them in lettuce with garlic, gochujang, and rice. It’s messy, interactive, and incredibly delicious. We paired it with local beer and walked home full and slightly tipsy. Tteokbokki was another revelation. Chewy rice cakes in a spicy, sweet red sauce that we couldn’t get enough of. And then there’s the fried chicken. Crisp, juicy, and perfectly seasoned. Korean food may have ruined us for all other comfort food. Honestly, if Seoul only offered food, we’d go back in a heartbeat.

Jeju: The Island We Missed but Won’t Next Time

One place we didn’t make it to? Jeju. And honestly, that stings a little.

We had hoped to squeeze it in, but time just didn’t allow for it. Still, Jeju remains firmly on our list, especially after watching the Apple TV documentary on the Haenyeo, Jeju’s legendary female free-divers. These women, many in their 60s, 70s, and even 80s, dive without oxygen tanks to collect shellfish, seaweed, and other treasures from the ocean floor. Their strength, grace, and resilience are astonishing.

The Haenyeo are part of a matriarchal tradition that’s been passed down through generations. They’re symbols of independence and female empowerment, and their way of life is now recognised as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Watching the documentary was both inspiring and humbling. It gave us a deep appreciation for this unique slice of Korean culture.

Jeju itself looks like an entirely different world: waterfalls, volcanic landscapes, tangerine orchards, and winding coastal roads. Next time, we’ll dive deeper, figuratively and perhaps literally. Because if our jjimjilbang scrub taught us anything, it’s that we’re not afraid of getting uncomfortable in pursuit of experience.

A Different Kind of Travel

South Korea challenged us in ways we didn’t expect. Compared to Japan, getting around took a little more effort, English was less widely spoken, and we had to rely more on translation apps. But that made our small moments of connection even more meaningful.

We leave Korea knowing we’ve only scratched the surface. But there’s no time to dwell, we’re off to China next, where we’re bracing for one of the biggest cultural shifts of our trip. It’s about to get interesting.

South Korea: A Whirlwind Introduction to a Country We’ll Be Back For